(Worked the morning we moved). I suspect a broken belt. All common parts work. The fan blows and all, just no heat. If the lint screen passes the test, then the step by step approach in the first paragraph will identify the problem. Jim, If the water beads up, then scrub the screen with a detergent until the water runs freely through it. The heat settings do not respond at all. Please call the U-FIX-IT Appliance Parts Store nearest you for free help. The flame sensor is located next to the burner. If the voltage reads 220 volts, the component is bad. I have a Whirlpool model WED7300XW0, it warms but will not get hot enough to dry a load. Scrubbing with a brush and detergent will remove the coating and allow the water to flow easily through the screen. If you question that the airflow is not enough, then check the lint screen as follows. I flipped the breaker to see if it would reset and it didn’t do anything. Check them for continuity or take them to your nearest U-FIX-IT store for free testing. Thank you for your kind words. Bad tub bearings make it more difficult for the motor to run which causes the motor to run hot. This dryer does not require 220 volts, but it does require a connect to gas since it is a gas dryer. If it was my dryer, I would replace the breakers just to eliminate them at this point. A grounded heating element can cause overheating and control circuit issues. You'll know if this part is an issue if your dryer is unable to tumble properly or is very noisy. Bring your old part into the store for free confirmation that it is bad. I’m pretty sure based on this that the issue rests with the timer because of the delayed activation of the heating unit. We replaced the heating coil. Hello Jim, I have a whirlpool duet dryer and all the controls light up but it won’t tumble or heat. Jim, Remove the lint filter and run a small amount of water into it. My dryer stopped heating. Hi, I came home a while ago and my dryer would spin and not heat up. To determine the problem with your Whirlpool gas dryer there is a test you can perform. And voila that was the problem. Armed with that information and a wiring diagram (usually found on the dryer) you can “see” the voltage going to the timer and the voltage leaving the timer going toward the motor. Glad to hear we helped you through the process. He wants me to just wait until he gets back but I wanna do some laundry. By the way this is an older conventional non-electronic dryer probably about 10 years old. You have eliminated the common items that produce your symptoms which means it is time to look at the less common causes. The air should be blowing against your hand vigorously. I’ve checked the breakers, fine. A moment will come when the item added will cause the dryer to fail the test and thus expose itself. I believe this model is made to be either gas or electric, but we have always used it as electric. Jim. I am more suspicious that the air flow is not good since protecting against restricted airflow is the purpose of the fuse. Hi, my husband was using the dryer and never cleaned the lint out , we have a whirlpool cabrio. Measure for 220 volts arriving at the machine and then use the wiring diagram as your guide to follow the 110 volts (one leg of the 220 volts) through the electrical circuit to the motor. My question is would this suddenly be an issue after living here for 6 years and having this dryer for 3 years? The water will bead on the screen and resist flowing through if it has accumulated a clear coating. To test, I unplug the hose, and let the dryer blow right in to the house. If you have any questions call the U-FIX-IT store nearest you. Informed substitutions can be made that will not compromise safety, but I would be surprised if the correct replacement is unavailable. If these suggestions do not lead you to a solution, give us a call. The blower wheel should be tightly mounted on the shaft with no looseness. I have a whirlpool dryer and it works great “when” it will heat. Ok, I have a Cabrio gas dryer that the heating will start and then thurn off the fire will not blow out once it has reached a certain temp. Hooked everything back and tried running it, will not work on regular setting , but will work on “LESS DRY” setting; even felt the heating element turn on. You can use a multi-meter and check the continuity of the element. I have cabrio dryer which stopped starting I replaced the thermal fuse and the dryer starting working however doesn’t get hot. I look forward to hearing your results. I have a whirlpool dryer, model # WED5510VQ1, that will heat up for the 1st load (about 30 minutes or so). Jim. Unplugged it and still no luck. Thanks Jim! V, Then it stopped working. The dryer gets very hot even when using “air dry”. I have an electic whirlpool dryer and it will only turn on if its on the air fluff setting. Have a Great Afternoon, Sir. Follow the cord to the dryer and remove the inspection plate located closest to it (make certain the dryer is unplugged). The dryer vent is clear of lint. If the element looks OK, then look for the wiring diagram in the dryer and contact your nearest U-FIX-IT store for personalized help. One item that you did not mention that needs to be tested is the centrifugal switch on the motor. We will be happy to work through it with you. The fuse can be tested for continuity with a multi-meter or take the fuse to your nearest U-FIX-IT store for free testing. The most common reason for a dryer running “cooler” than normal is insufficient air flow. You are correct, the Duet has a more complex control system, but the mechanical part is very similar to the old designs. The thermal fuse protects against the dryer overheating. The drum spins normal. I have an electric Whirlpool Model WED5200VQ1.The dryer does not dry unless there is a ticking sound coming from the knob and that it a rarity to get. Whole mid was hit a load, it will shut off and say br or cr? Sometimes I have to do this 3-4 times. Good components will have a voltage reading of zero (between the terminal going in and the terminal coming out), and the bad component will have a reading of 220 volts. Then add one item (such as the exhaust duct) at a time back to the configuration and repeat the test. It’s not the THERMAL FUSE, DOOR SWITCH, obviously anything to do with the motor, drum, or drum parts (belts, pulleys, etc). Well done on 37 years. And I know it isn’t a stuck dryer start switch because I have to press the start button to turn it back on after I open door. If neither test yields results, call the nearest U-FIX-IT store for troubleshooting assistance. I’ve tracked down a technical guide to help with troubleshooting. Hold the motor pulley and check to see if the blower wheel turns on the shaft. I found a simple hand drawn diagram was good enough for me - using colour pencils for the different coloured wires. I have an electric dryer, that at first worked perfectly fine, then it stopped getting hot, soon after the timer quit working. Call or visit the nearest U-FIX-IT store for free assistance in diagnosing your problem. The heating element is receiving 240 volts and glowing. Thanks in advance for any insight. I am having trouble with my dryer not heating. As the motor comes up to speed, the centrifugal switch (which is a part of the motor) closes and supplies voltage to the “run winding” of the motor. Please recheck your model number. It is unlikely that your motor is going bad. Then I follow the wiring diagram to the first component in the circuit and, with the dryer running, measure the voltage across the component. Observe the flame as the dryer starts. It does not heat up (not drying). Couldn’t have done it without your easy-to-understand walk-through. There is a video on the U-FIX-IT website (click on the dryer Parts tab and DIY videos) that will show you how to open the cabinet. The heating element is wired through the centrifugal switch on the motor to prevent the element from heating when the motor is not running. So we replaced the thermostat and fuse. If I restart the dryer in the timed dry, high heat, for 60 to 40 minutes, the dryer heats okay. Or something else?Thank You. I didn’t run it long enough for it to cut off, but I am assuming that on high it eventually gets too hot and turns off the heating element. The only thing not checked was the timer switch necause we culdnt get it apart. The repeated failure of the safety fuse is often the result of poor air flow. Hello. I replaced everything suggested – Heating Element, Thermal Fuse, High Limit Thermostat, Cycling Thermostat, and even cleaned out the dryer and vents but it still won’t dry. Make certain the vent is clear and unobstructed. Not sure what to check nor how. The cord terminal block can break down causing one of the cord terminals to burn and separate from one leg of the dryer cord. I am unable to identify the part from your description. Tiffinee, If you read 220 volts the component is bad and needs to be replaced. The U-FIX-IT Appliance Parts store will be happy to give you free diagnosis assistance by phone if you need it. Start with by inspecting the terminal block on your Whirlpool electric dryer. Use a multi meter to check the continuity on your fuses or take them to the nearest U-FIX-IT store for free testing. For personalized help in locating the fuse or troubleshooting the dryer call the U-FIX-IT store nearest you. Purchased in 2000. I have included pictures of the common thermostats and fuses. I hope you can help me! Can I can use a multi-meter to pinpoint the cause? So I read all of your information on fixing the dryers and any problems it could be. I have not visually looked at the heating element. Whirlpool dryers have one or more fuses and safety thermostats that cut power to the heater when there is insufficient airflow. Just bring your wiring diagram (or a photo of your wiring diagram) to your nearest U-FIX-IT store. It may be located in the control panel or it may be on the back of the dryer, but there is usually one included somewhere on the dryer. My dryer was turning, but not heating, so I followed your advice and checked the breaker box first. It happened two months ago, and worked fine after replacing the thermistor. I would check the fuse again and then I would check the airflow. I would heck the airflow after the dryer has been running for awhile. I tested many things with an ohm meter and know how to take my dryer apart In the end the dryer is fine. If a short exists and you failed to find it, the new resistor will very shortly look just like the old one. 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